Deana Kartsagouli
From iconic tavernas with stories etched into their walls, to seaside spots with fresh fish and sunset views, and even a retro disco where the night never really ends, these are the places to eat, drink, and feel like a local when you’re visiting Epidaurus.
As we are getting closer to the final performances at Epidaurus’ ancient theater, it is safe to say that it has been quite a successful year. Combining a bold international program with acclaimed domestic productions, it brought big names like Teodor Currentzis and Juliette Binoche to the great theater’s stage.
The season started with a highly talked about production of Antigone by German director Ulrich Rasche, which succeeded in bringing 30.000 people on during the first weekend. His provocative version of the ancient tragedy set the tone for an intense, rhythm-driven season.
Dimitris Tarlow introduced his Electra the following weekend and Michail Marmarinos -the Athens & Epidaurus Festival’s next director after Katerina Evaggelatou’s 7 year term which ends this year-, visited three Odyssey rhapsodies with his “ζ – η – θ, the Stranger”.
Currentzis, during his first ever performance in Epidavros, presented a heart-breaking tribute to Gustav Mahler’s “Kindertotenlieder” (Songs on the Death of Children), Giannis Chouvardas brought Oedipus’ story to light presenting an amalgamation of both of Sophocles’ tragedies, “Oedipus Rex” and “Oedipus at Colonus”.
Juliette Binoche shined on stage along with a great international cast, directed by Wajdi Mouawad. A beautiful but difficult to watch presentation of intergenerational trauma, war crimes, genocide and Europe’s stance on world politics.
After the lights dimmed however, the show continued and conversations continued from the theatre aisles into the tavernas of Lygourio and Ancient Epidaurus, where, for decades, some of Greece’s most prominent theatrical figures have gathered to unwind after the effort and emotion of the stage.
Regulars know these spots well. They come not just for a plate of food but for a chance to rub shoulders with the people they just watched perform. Visiting Epidaurus each summer has, by now, become something of a ritual. One arrives in the afternoon, perhaps stops for a coffee at the theatre’s refreshment area, and after the performance, heads to one of the atmospheric local tavernas.
Leonidas – The tavern that grew with the festival
In Lygourio, just a short driving distance from the theater, Leonidas has become an extension of the stage. The restaurant opened in 1953 as a modest coffeehouse, but Its transformation into a key meeting point for artists, critics, and spectators came organically.
Inside, the walls are lined with signed photos, sketches by Yannis Tsarouchis, dedications from Melina Mercouri, Katina Paxinou, Manos Katrakis. Its reputation spans decades, and the waiting list for a table on performance nights is long. Those in the know have made their reservations weeks in advance.
All this is also captured in the book “Callas, Minotis, Koun and Kakia’s Home-Cooked Meals”, which recounts the story of the Epidaurus Festival through the food and the personalities that passed through the Lygourio taverna.
Ms. Kakia, the tavern’s matriarch and cook, remembers Katina Paxinou storming into the kitchen to cook with her, Minotis eating olives and tossing the pits onto the floor, Mitterrand arriving quietly with a young companion, Karolos Koun sitting silently at a corner table with Lazanis.
All of it accompanied by her masterfully prepared giouvetsi, the fava, and her famous noix de veau that filled the table then — and still do today.
These are dishes one can still enjoy in the courtyard, beneath the grapevine arbor, while watching the stars of the evening’s performance dine at the next table.
Asklipiou 112, Lygourio, Tel.: +30 27530 22115
Kalogerikon, from monastery to a foodies’ must visit destination
Kalogerikon occupies a 160-year-old stone building that once housed a monastery. Today it functions as a quiet restaurant known for its clear cooking philosophy: seasonal ingredients, restraint, and attention to local traditions.
The kitchen was initially shaped by the late Evi Voutsina, cook, food historian, and researcher. Her presence still defines the place as the dedicated and knowledgeable owners, Panagiota and Tasos keep her cooking philosophy alive.
This is THE place to go if you are a foodie but keep in mind that it is not open till late and there are no reservations. It’s a must visit if you want to eat before the show or the following day for lunch or dinner.
Please try their vegan “stifado” with onions and prunes, their beautifully creamy fava, the eggplant appetizer with basil, the slow-cooked chicken with hilopites (traditional pasta) or anything else on the menu. Fresh salads and chorta (the Almyra is perfectly cooked), savory pies with hand-made dough and the best bread you can find (made at an oven in a monastery from freshly ground grains at the areas ancient mill) are a must try.
In the glasses, you’ll find house wine, a small but thoughtful selection of Greek labels, and -of course- Zeos beer from the Argos microbrewery, served in large bottles.
Nik. Pitidi & Panagia 210 59, Tel.: +30 27530 42090
Mouria – Minotis and Iphigenia
The story of Mouria starts with a thirsty legendary actor and a lovingly given drink of water. During rehearsal period in the 1950s, actor Alexis Minotis, parched in the midday heat, approached a beach shack in what was then still a quiet coastal patch. Inside it were Urania and Nikolaos, raising their four children.
Minotis asked for water. Their kindness made the not only offering him the water he needed, but also food. This gesture became the foundation of the tavern. Later, their daughter Iphigenia -fittingly named- would take over the kitchen. She lived her entire life within its walls.
To this day, the flavors remain connected to those early years. Tomatoes from the family garden, eggplants braised in olive oil and basil, tender green beans, perfectly cooked potatoes, simple meat dishes, fish caught by Nikolaos.
Skordalia was a favorite of Aliki Vougiouklaki. Kostas Voutsas would help with clearing the chairs at night and Rena Vlahopoulou, it is said, cooked in the kitchen. It was their home away from home every time they were in Epidaurus.
Over the years, the guest list expanded to include Jean-Paul Gaultier, Helen Mirren, Sam Mendes, Ethan Hawke, Kevin Spacey, Luciano Pavarotti and other legendary international stars.
The Mouria sits right by the sea. Tables look out to the bay. Rooms above offer basic accommodation. You can visit it in the evening after the performance -and you won’t be alone. This is where actors, directors, technicians, and other members of the theatre community gather to eat, drink, and unwind. Or you can come the following day for a swim and a meal by the sea.
Mouria 1, Ancient Epidaurus – Tel: +30 2753 041218
To Perivoli tis Gogos – Warm Hospitality and Homemade Cooking
The restaurant “To Perivoli tis Gogos” boasts one of the most charming and iconic courtyards in Ancient Epidaurus, where eating feels like the Greek summers of our youth.
Orange trees wrap around the garden, the setting feels like a family courtyard, and the hospitality recalls those long Sunday lunches around a generous table.
From noon until late into the evening, the wood-fired oven is in constant use, while the kitchen serves up dishes inspired by Greek heritage — with a twist. Think meatballs scented with mint, slow-cooked pork knuckle, lemony lamb, zucchini fritters, and wild greens in seasonal salads. Everything is carefully prepared and served in a setting designed for unwinding.
EO Argous–Ancient Epidaurus 1, Ancient Epidaurus – Tel: +30 2753 041500
Disco Capaki – A little bit -or a lot- of 80s in Ancient Epidaurus
It looks like it was plucked straight from a Greek small-town disco in the 1980s. However, it has seen dance moves by Jenny Karezi and Nikos Kourkoulos entertaining generations of disco loving visitors.
Since 1981, plopped in the middle of an old orange grove in Yalassi, this place has welcomed the entire theatrical crowd — actors, directors, technicians, and loyal spectators — who head straight there after the show for a drink and a spin on the dance floor.
Its original ‘80s dancefloor has witnessed both the graceful moves of The music? Rhythmic and nostalgic, made for dancing. Younger guests get swept up in a kind of fun they rarely encounter elsewhere, while older ones reminisce about the summers of their youth.
It’s the ultimate post-performance ritual of the festival – joyfully vintage, unironically cult, completely unpretentious- for some the best reason to visit Epidaurus. And that’s exactly why we love it.
N. Pittidi 10, Yalassi, Epidaurus – Email: [email protected]
