A night at 10 Urban Roof

Buffalo burrata from Kerkini, olive oil from Messinia, shrimp from Preveza, wine labels from around the country. Chef Stefanos Kolimadis’ menu at Radisson Blu Park Hotel’s restaurant is an ode to traditional Greek gastronomy

There’s a lot to be said about rooftop bars and restaurants. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, yet near it enough to appreciate from above, they offer the much needed escape and pause from everyday life. We were recently reminded of that when we visited 10 Urban Roof, the restaurant located on the 10th floor of the Radisson Blu Park Hotel in Athens. 

It was a rather cold Wednesday night and Alexandras Avenue felt a bit deserted and gloomy, not its usual busy self. Upon entering the hotel and after a short elevator ride the whole atmosphere shifted. It was as though we were transported to an inviting “modern and relaxed garden, with clear views of the Acropolis and Mount Lycabettus -thanks to the large windows. The natural materials used, the greenery and the simple design were very “easy on the eyes” and at the same time opulent. Simply put, the room was made for fun nights. And the welcoming aperitif which, among other things, contained mastiha liqueur was a nice touch. 

Modern Greek dining

Having set the mood, we were escorted to our tables where we would get a very comprehensive taste of Chef Stefanos Kolimadis’  menu that seamlessly combines traditional Greek cuisine with a contemporary flair. At the core of every dish are the high-quality local ingredients from small farmers and producers. To start, everyone is welcomed with freshly baked sourdough bread paired with extra virgin olive oil from Messinia and marinated Kalamata olives, setting the tone for the meal ahead. 

The first course was equally simple and full of flavor: buffalo burrata from Kerkini paired with aromatic wild herbs, roasted tomatoes, capers, and just a hint of chili. It was a perfect balance of creamy, savory, and lightly spicy. 

And this was where the first wine of the evening was introduced, the Karanika Cuvée Spéciale Extra Brut 2022. I would like to note that the wine selection was exceptional and complemented each dish brilliantly. So, the first choice was a crisp and elegant sparkling wine from Amyndeon, made in the traditional Champagne method, that tempered the spiciness of the dish. It also accompanied the slightly smoked eggplant with red Florina pepper, tomato, feta cheese and walnut dish that followed.

Skioufichta, fricassée and Hünkâr Beğendi

One of the most interesting items on the menu was “skioufichta” with tartar and bisque made of shrimp from Preveza. “Skioufichta” is a type of fresh pasta made on the island of Crete that is usually cooked with staka (a type of butter-cheese) and “myzythra” (a salt-dried grating cheese) or meat stew. What chef Kolimadis did was serve it with tomato sauce and a shrimp tartar on top of it. As he explained, he wanted to keep the shrimp fresh and not ruin its flavor by cooking it: “When mixed with the hot pasta it would cook as much as needed which is minimally”, he told us. 

It was paired with one of the finest Greek rose wines, the La Tour Melas Idylle d’Achinos, which is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Agiorgitiko grapes. Flavors and aromas of strawberries, peaches, and citrus, a hint of flowers and herbs, made it ideal also for the dish that followed, which was the crowd favorite, grouper fricassée (casserole with greens and lemon sauce). Tender fish that was cooked with a mix of aromatic herbs in a rich, saffron-infused sauce. Reminiscent of mom’s cooking but with a more elevated style. 

Next was the Hünkâr Beğendi with a twist, a dish of slow-cooked veal served with a smoky eggplant purée, béchamel, and a touch of cumin. It was hearty, comforting, and unique. And its pair was a bold, ruby red Xinomavro from Naousa. We have ripe red fruits, dried tomatoes, olives, and earthy spices and on the palate, a great balance of acidity and fine tannins, giving it both structure and freshness.

Last but not least, the orange sorbet was a refreshing touch, light yet satisfying, and complemented by silky almond cream, a dash of saffron, and a delicate meringue. It was a perfect end to a meal and an experience that had everything. Next time I’m trying the traditional Corfian “Pastitsada”, recommended by the chef and the chocolate cream with olive oil, sea salt and cardamom ice cream, a true mix of authentic Greek flavors.