Deana Kartsagouli
As a new wave of world-class chefs flock to the Athenian Riviera, Glyfada is starting to share in Greece’s exciting gastronomic renaissance. We go behind the kitchen doors of five major openings that have turned this southern suburb into a new foodie destination.
The gastronomic identity of Glyfada, for as long as I can remember, having been a resident since the 1980s, has been very specific. Defined by the American culture back when there was an active US military base in Ellinikon, it was THE place for a good burger or an authentic pub. Even in the famous neighborhood of ‘Biftekoupoli’-literally, the ‘City of Beef Patties’-the traditional tavernas focused almost exclusively on their namesake, bifteki.
As the suburb evolved, attracting new, high-income residents, the food scene started changing. Alongside fast food chains, plenty of places for an expensive meal started opening up. Mostly, restaurants where the focus was not the food, but the social scene, the hype. Chefs were reluctant to venture into an area considered mostly as “new money” which was also far away from the robust Athens center scene.
But the tide is turning. A few, but very substantial arrivals and grand openings are slowly transforming this southern “gastronomic island” into a foodie destination -even adorned with a few Michelin stars. Let’s take a look at some of these new chefs in town and what they are bringing to the table, both in vision and on the plate.
[1]
ANA Ψ KTIRIO (Anapsiktirio) – Fine dining comfort with a retro vibe
Perhaps above all else, Glyfada is a beach town. Especially in the ’80s and ’90s, before the massive projects along its coast barred access to pedestrians, the locals would experience everything seaside. Long walks, parties with guitar-accompanied sing alongs, bon fires, budding romances and eating with friends. The latter was done on eateries called “anapsiktiria”, essentially refreshment stands. That is the retro vibe that the newest project in Glyfada wants to bring to 2026, in a space designed by Studio Bonarchi, that effortlessly teleports you to previous decades, while cult Greek TV series and Tarantino clips flicker on the screens. The difference is, here, the focus is on good food.
Heading the kitchen is Thanos Feskos, a chef with a pedigree from the world’s top kitchens from Copenhagen’s Geranium to Athens’ own Michelin-starred Delta. He, along with Dimitris Chatzidimitriou who we know from “Bella Vespa”, serve a menu that is based on sophisticated comfort food with a strong emphasis on local products. Just to offer some examples, we have meatballs (keftedakia) with stakovoutiro (Cretan goat butter), “bouyiourdi” which is a spicy baked feta dish and here the chefs use the barrel-aged creamy kind, French fries made from potatoes from Thrace or the charoupi bread that is served with olive oil from Siri on the island of Lesvos. Tip: The cocktails here are amazing too.
Κyprou 74, Glyfáda
[2]
Dopios – traditional tapas with an international twist
It’s been less than a year since Christoforos Peskias, the famous Cypriot chef, brought his Athens-based “Dopios” to Glyfada, sparking a quiet, but significant shift for the area. The same menu, the same philosophy, the same viral keftedakia (fried meatballs), but a newly earned loyal following. One that was craving what Peskias has to offer.
Food to share, high-quality ingredients sourced from local producers, a superb wine list that begs to be paired with the delicacies on the menu and a strong culinary technique that highlights all the aforementioned. And, even though all the elements sound like an upscale traditional taverna, Peskias does what he knows best, modestly adding modern twists to his Greek dishes.
For example, the beautifully creamy taramasalata, instead of its usual side-kicks pita or bread, was served with shrimp chips. The delicious “dolmadakia” (stuffed vine leaves) come with a vegan yogurt made of cashews, the hard to find in the city “gouna” cured mackerel (a staple dish in Cyclades, especially Paros), has a yuzu citrus dressing and the lamb patties are accompanied by a mint chutney. Note: try the red mullet with bread crust and savoro sauce, my favorite on the menu.
Laodikis 31, Glyfada
[3]
Ekiben Kitchen South – When in Glyfada, eat like the Japanese
No surprises here as well, since we have another Athenian success story that has given birth to a southern twin. Aris Vezenes, one of the most influential and talented chefs of his generation, has defined a specific kind of cuisine for the city’s food scene. Owner of the high-end restaurant “Vezene” and the meat lovers’ authentic taverna “Manari”, he has also introduced us to the gastronomic Japanese culture of every day cooking that is not limited to sushi. Born from the DNA of Birdman-Vezenes’ iconic Japanese pub-Ekiben is its more relaxed sibling, centered around the bento (a traditional Japanese single-portion, home-packed or take-out meal, typically served in a partitioned container).
Pickled vegetable dishes, a hearty and decadent udon carbonara with guanciale, marinated egg yolk, pecorino Romano cheese and furikake bacon, that you will fall in love with and a “happy dance”-delicious soy chicken with rice and vegetables, are among the dishes that we tried at Ekiben Kitchen South and now cannot get enough of. Also, do not forget to order the dry aged beef gyoza and of course the smashed burger that gives homage to the city’s burger tradition.
Extra perk: Ekiben Kitchen South is a beautifully designed modern space where people can grab a quick bite to eat, a top-notch cocktail in a happening atmosphere. Contemporary and cool, but with substance, a hot spot that has something to say, combining Glyfada’s party mentality along with -plain and simply- really good food.
Glyfada, Laodikis 41, 166 74
[4]
Myoko – Japanese Fusion with a Mediterranean Soul
If Ekiben is the raw, street-style face of Tokyo, Myoko is a combination of Japanese zen with cosmopolitan glamour, located in the heart of the suburb. Chef Prokopis Kouris, a seasoned professional who sharpened his blades at spots like the Elounda Beach Hotel, has created a menu that, on the one hand, is defined by high-level raw artistry, such as the Sea Bream & Uni Carpaccio with tomato ponzu and fresh sea urchin and on the other, showcases the Robata (Japanese grill) that produces aromas which remind you why this neighborhood has always been obsessed with fire and coal.
However, Myoko’s true genius lies in its elevated comfort food. The Iberico Katsu Sando and the Wagyu Beef Smash Burger are the ultimate “guilty pleasures” for any local who grew up in the golden age of ‘Biftekoupoli,’ proving that the burger hasn’t disappeared, it’s just evolved. For a more indulgent turn, the Creamy Lobster Udon with red curry and coconut milk is a standalone reason to book a table.
Fivis 17, Glyfada
[5]
Pino – A little taste of Rome and Michelin starred cooking
Another powerhouse that has recently settled in Gyfada, Luca Piscazzi, the Michelin-starred Italian chef behind the ultra Greek Pelagos at the Four Seasons in Vouliagmeni, has created another destination for foodies. For Piscazzi, who although relatively new to Greece, has traveled every one of its corners to delve into the culinary culture and to discover rare delicacies, this trattoria is, in essence, a deeply personal homecoming. Having grown up in Rome and spending his days in his family restaurant since the age of six, the chef has designed a menu that serves as an edible map of his childhood. This is the Rome of his memories, characterized by the authenticity that has made Italian cuisine loved the world over.
The star of the show here is the pizza, crafted exactly the way Italians actually love it, with a thin crust and high-quality toppings. However, Piscazzi also offers a fascinating “then and now” perspective on the menu options, a fine example being the carbonara. It is recommended either the way his grandmother made it or in its new age version, one that is tweaked by a Michelin starred chef.
Kyprou 18, Glyfáda
