Deana Kartsagouli
After spending time with the incredible artwork at one of Athens’ most prestigious art institutions, what better way to round out the day than with a great meal?
Housing some of the world’s greatest masterpieces in its modern and spacious building in Pagrati, the Vassilis & Elisa Goulandris Museum is certainly an art lover’s top destination in Greece. It is where one can admire, up close, Pablo Picasso’s “Nude Woman with Raised Arms” (1907), Claude Monet’s “Rouen Cathedral in the Morning (pink tint)”, (1894), Vincent van Gogh’s “Still Life with Coffee Pot” (1888), Francis Bacon’s “Three Studies for Self-Portrait”, (1972), Jackson Pollock’s “Number 13” (1950). The museum also features works by Henri Matisse, Joan Miró, Paul Cézanne, Wassily Kandinsky, and, last, but certainly not least, perhaps the most famous of all of its exhibits, Edgar Degas’ sculpture “Little Dancer Aged Fourteen”.
Special music events like jazz nights, happenings and projects for children etc., make the museum an every day gathering space for artistic expression of all kinds. However, what is also very interesting in the case of this institution, is its location. Pagrati is one of the most bustling and happening neighborhoods of Athens, where Michelin starred restaurants and simple, yet quality, fast food haunts co-exist in harmony. Let’s get to know some of them.
[1]
B&E Goulandris Café-Restaurant | Greek ingredient based menu
We begin with the museum itself and the in house cafe-restaurant spread across the ground floor and first level. The space opens up to an urban garden, a rare green retreat in the heart of Athens. Here, executive chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos and the talented Deipnosofistirion team bring Greek flavors to life with a menu that celebrates tradition in a fresh, modern way, whether it’s Greek toast, a burger with Cretan graviera cheese, Kasos-style dolmadakia or tagliatelle with Amfilochia pecorino cheese.
Whether you’re just enjoying a cup of coffee, a long lunch, or just soaking in the atmosphere, the B&E Goulandris Café-Restaurant is where art and gastronomy come together.
Eratosthenous 13, Τel. +30 210 72.52.895
[2]
Louvron | Re-imagining the Greek “kafeneio”
Exactly across the street from the B&E Goulandris Museum stands one of the more historic cafés in Pagrati that has been serving locals since 1937. Once a traditional Greek café (kafeneio in Greek), Louvron has been given a modern revival. The café’s décor keeps the warm, inviting touches of the 1940s alive, with a bit of modern design sprinkled in to create a relaxed yet stylish atmosphere. It doesn’t matter if you’re sitting inside or outside in the lovely garden, you’ll immediately feel at home.
Here, you can sip on aged tsipouro, tsikoudia, or try a Greek-inspired Bloody Mary. Pair your drink with mezedes like lemony chickpeas with Lefkada salami, meatballs with mint sauce, smoked trout, beef liver in pomegranate sauce or lamb souvlaki marinated in buttermilk and yogurt with chili oil. Each dish surprises with its creativity while staying true to traditional flavors. Don’t miss the fresh salads like the one with quinoa, beets, and orange, or the one with Chinese cabbage, mango and coconut chips.
Eratosthenous 6, Tel. +30 210-70.16.594
[3]
Cupola | A taste of Naples in Athens
For nearly a decade, Cupola has been one of Pagrati’s most cherished spots, offering a true taste of Italy in the heart of Athens. One of its best traits is the open kitchen which lets you watch as the meals are being prepared, from the always popular carbonara to the staple Neapolitan pizza baked in the wood-fired oven. Actually, Cupola was one of the first restaurants to bring the Napolitana pizza to Athens.
Try the Pizza Parma, with prosciutto di Parma, mozzarella, and San Marzano tomatoes, the classic vitello tonnato, the papardelle ragu with veal scallop or the homemade cappelli del prete mushroom ravioli with mascarpone and white and black truffle cream. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from their list of 100 labels and you will instantly feel you are in Naples!
Efrionos 13, Tel. +30 211-41.17.444
[4]
Mavros Gatos | “Paidiakia” and home-style cooking
Whenever someone asks you where to take a large -or smaller- group of people for authentic and really great tasting “paidakia” (Greek style lamb chops) in Athens, suggest this place. A favorite since 1963, Mavros Gatos has held on to its original character, even though the neighborhood around it is constantly changing and following trends. Home cooked meals, daily specials, including the tavern’s famous stuffed cabbage rolls, pies from Epirus and grilled meats -try the sikoti (liver) which is amazing. Also, you’ll get a chance to enjoy a truly authentic Greek taverna experience!
Polemonos 4, Pangrati, Tel. +30 210-72.36.903
[5]
Soil | Sustainability and high technique
Even though when one talks about Michelin stars in Pagrati the mind goes to Spondi, which has for 14 years consecutively held on to either one or two stars, we decided to present the newer Soil instead, created by chef Tasos Mantis and Alexandros Mouridis, to celebrate nature along with a culinary journey. The tasting experience at Soil begins with a light cocktail, followed by delicately crafted dishes like Kylados shrimp paired with orange fillets, pecans, and a mussel cream.
The menu’s main focus revolves around the innovative use of local ingredients, and techniques like “nose to tail” cooking which takes advantage of every element of the ingredients so as not to let anything go to waste. Every dish is thoughtfully designed, often adorned with edible flowers and herbs. The 14-course tasting menu is designed to be both satisfying and educational, offering a perfect balance of flavors without overwhelming the senses.
Ferekydou 5, Pagrati, Tel. +30 210-75.13.505
[6]
The Vegan Vandal | Quality street food
Created in 2020, during the COVID-19 lockdowns, The Vegan Vandal managed to, not only survive, but thrive offering delicious and innovative vegan alternatives to traditional street food. The restaurant, created by chef Alberto Simillidis and run by Maria Matsa, focuses on high-quality ingredients and creating comfort food that feels familiar, yet offers a healthier twist.
The menu includes a range of options such as vegan burgers, souvlaki, “ladenia” (a type of pizza) from Kimolos, and Rhodes-style ladopita stuffed with potatoes and curry. Each dish is made from scratch, with creativity and careful attention to detail. Unlike other places that focus on health food in a restrictive way, Vegan Vandal emphasizes flavor and satisfaction, using fresh ingredients to deliver a street food experience that reminds diners of the “dirty” food they love.
Amynta 15, Tel. +30 210-72.14.003
[7]
Asotos | Blending the rogue with the classic
Greek classics are given a surprising and creative twist by chef Michalis Merzenis and his talented team in this new restaurant with a rogue edge, blending the heart of Greek culinary tradition with a touch of playful innovation. The space itself feels like a blend of contrasts. On one hand, you’ll find raw, industrial elements like exposed concrete and metal fixtures and on the other, elegant touches like crisp white tablecloths and shiny silverware which bring a touch of refinement. It’s this mix of the rugged and the refined that you also see in the food: familiar, but with a fresh perspective.
The menu at Asotos is full of re-imagined classics, where high-quality ingredients are the star, and every dish carries Merzenis’s signature twist. The stuffed cabbage rolls stand out, with their layer-by-layer presentation reminiscent of lasagna, topped with a delicate celery egg-lemon sauce that enhances the rich filling. The pasticcio, made with goat meat and Naxos arseniko cream, is equally unforgettable, while the frygadeli (a lamb offal dish from Lefkada) will surely become a fan favorite. From starters like tuna tartar to the playful pumpkin mille-feuille, Asotos that Greek cuisine can be bold, fun, and downright delicious.
Amynta 6, Proskopon Square, Tel. +30 210- 72.13.720
