Okupa: Levantine Notes in the Heart of Athens and a sense of belonging

Marcel Proust once said that memory is never detached from the senses. It is a thought that often returns, every time I find myself in front of a dish with new flavours, a cup of aromatic herbs, or a glass of aged spirits.

Even in our most solitary moments, we seem to search for a table. A table shared with one or more people, where we talk, laugh, argue about the right amount of salt or how well-cooked a fillet should be, but above all, where we feel present. It is a ritual, necessary for us to feel alive, present, and, even in the smallest way, active participants in shaping tastes, relationships and perceptions.

Even more so when that moment becomes a pause within a city that is constantly in motion. A pause with food as its starting point, with dishes placed at the centre of the table to be shared, discussed, interrupted by laughter and conversation.

It was in this spirit that, one afternoon just before sunset, I found myself in a neighbourhood of Athens that balances between past and present. Where Psyrri, Thissio and Keramikos meet in a triangle filled with cafés, small galleries, theatres, effortless creativity and history: at Okupa. Just a breath away from the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora. Despite being in one of the city’s liveliest areas, there is something here that makes you feel different, almost at home.

The occasion was Okupa’s new menu, which is reimagined three times a year. A perspective shaped by Levantine cuisine, where Greek ingredients take the leading role. Tarama and chips with za’atar and bottarga arrives first, opening the conversation, followed by grilled asparagus with almond tarator and fresh chervil, perhaps one of my favourite dishes, along with the courgette salad with mint, pistachio, lemon and ourfa pepper. Flavours of summer, perfectly in tune with the rising temperatures of the city these days.

Next come the sea bass ceviche with pink grapefruit, buckwheat and onion, and the red mullet crudo with tomato juice and ras el hanout olive oil, both moving with precision between freshness, acidity and clarity of flavour.

As the flow continues, the dishes gain intensity without ever becoming heavy. The lamb skewers with muhammara and handmade flatbread are warm and aromatic, bringing a sense of familiarity, while the crispy pork belly with zhoug, molasses and pickles makes me feel like a child again, with the irresistible urge to lick my fingers.

And then comes dessert. The dark chocolate mousse with cardamom and caramelised hazelnuts closes the evening, gently reminding you that, no matter how much you believe in sharing, there are always small exceptions.

Each dish has its role, and together they are designed to coexist, even if there are occasional debates at the table about how easy they are to share. Still, everything passes from hand to hand.

Behind this lies the collaboration between co-founder and food & beverage director Hrag Darakjian and head chef Nikos Drantakis, who shape the menu through a more thoughtful approach to flavour, without the need to impress. Hrag brings an international perspective that extends beyond the food itself, influencing the overall experience of hospitality, from the music to the rhythm of the space. The chef, on the other hand, signs dishes that reflect a contemporary expression of Greek cuisine, with an emphasis on balance and technical precision. The result is a menu with a Mediterranean soul, one that seeks to naturally integrate into the rhythm of the day.

As Hrag Darakjian notes, it is a culinary bridge between their Levantine heritage and their life in Greece, a reflection of travel experiences filtered through familiar, local ingredients.

From morning until late at night, Okupa shifts its rhythm without losing its identity. From a light and bright daytime setting, it gradually transitions into a more relaxed evening atmosphere, where food becomes an invitation to share, accompanied by carefully selected labels and signature cocktails.

Architecturally, Okupa follows a clean, contemporary line that avoids coldness. There is a balance between industrial elements and the warmth of natural materials, with earthy tones and no unnecessary contrasts or excess. The warm orange that runs through the space acts almost as a signature, giving it character and cohesion.

At the heart of this experience is music. The listening bar is not just a reference but an active element of the space’s identity. If you happen to visit on a Sunday between 13:00 and 16:00, you are very likely to encounter live jazz bands.

And then, the space opens up towards the back. A small, lush garden becomes a quiet refuge within the city. You can sit on the steps or at the distinctive orange tables and let time slow down.

Okupa takes its name from the Spanish word ocupar, meaning “to occupy.” But here, it is not about possession. It is about reinterpreting space. About creating places that bring people closer together, that act as bridges between cultures, between locals and travellers.

Occupy responsibly.