elc team
By Sofia Triantou
As the years go by, Alonissos remains a special place for me, not only because of its beauty, but also because of the way it makes me feel. It has a quietness, an authenticity, and that sense that everything is a little bit calmer, that makes you want to stay. Maybe it’s the village, the old Chora, perched high up with views in all directions. You climb there to get to know the place, to see the colours in the traditional houses, to stand in front of a view that cannot be described in words. The alleys are quiet, the houses are well cared for, and when the wind blows, you can smell the basil in the pots and the sea together.
I love Alonissos because it doesn’t try to prove anything. It’s authentic, simple, quiet. There the sea embraces the pine trees. A place that allows you to live without noise. And that, nowadays, is precious. It manages to keep an old rhythm without being forgotten.
Every summer, I look forward to arriving there, in Votsi—the small natural harbour with the fishing boats and our beloved Elpida, who welcomes us every year with a caring smile.
One afternoon, our summer neighbor showed up with a basin in her hand and said in her usual style, “Let me make you some fouskakia!” She lit the burner in the yard and started frying right there among us. She dropped the batter into the hot oil and it immediately puffed up. The whole place filled with a sweet, fragrant smell. Fouskakia— little bubbles—with honey, for all of us. We sat around her as if waiting to be handed a great treasure, and yet, it’s moments like these that are worth as much as a treasure. All of us gathered around a table overlooking the harbour, eating fouskakia drizzled with honey and cinnamon with our hands. In Alonissos, these little fried treats are called fouskakia, because as soon as they hit the oil, they puff up like little balls of joy.
A few days later, in the same neighborhood, the Sardine Festival took place. The harbour was full of people—locals and visitors became one—music, grills, and lively voices all around. The scent of grilled sardines and pasta with local tuna filled the air, along with the sea breeze and the aroma of the local wine offered by the local women.
Alonissos, in the heart of the Northern Sporades, is an island with rich biodiversity, deeply rooted in tradition and rich in cultural memory—combining botanical knowledge with folk wisdom.
Its flora includes more than 400 species and subspecies of plants. The island is mostly covered with Mediterranean maquis vegetation: lentisk, kermes oaks, thyme, oregano, sage, pennyroyal, and other aromatic herbs create a precious natural mosaic. The microclimate, rocky soil, and clean atmosphere enhance the concentration of essential oils in the island’s herbs, giving them a strong fragrance and potent properties.
For centuries, folk medicine relied on these herbs, which were mostly gathered and carefully dried by the local women. Oregano and rosemary were used for cooking and ointments, pennyroyal for the stomach, chamomile for both children and adults and mountain tea for weather changes and overall vitality.
Alonissos remains deeply connected to island life and the customs of tradition. From the wild greens gathered for pies to the drying of herbs in household kitchens, the island’s women continue—though less systematically—to pass down care practices and preparations based on natural ingredients. Food flavored with local herbs, traditional spoon sweets, local tuna preserved in jars, the sharing of a sprig of oregano all remind us of the island’s heritage.
And its festivals—the Greek panigyri—are more than just celebrations, each year they create new memories. Every August, in the town (Chora), the “Wedding of the Virgin Mary” is reenacted with traditional costumes, music, and food; cooked goat and pasta shared with everyone. At the “Fishermen’s Night” in Patitiri, locals and visitors eat fresh fish together and drink wine, while at the “Dance Festival” groups from all over Greece gather on the island. In July, women gather to make trahanas and recall the old threshing floors, while the “Cheese Pie Night” and the “Wine and Harvest Festival” in September bring back the joy of shared flavors as a collective act.
Leaving Alonissos, I always carry something more than what I brought. A little oregano, a story from Giota about the seals, a smile from Elpida—who always knows just when to offer you some fouskitses—and a wave from Angelos.
It’s beautiful to know there’s a place that remembers you.
