Deana Kartsagouli
What’s cooking in Athens’ most talked-about grand openings? Famous chefs, Michelin stars, street artists, and even old tire shops align for what is shaping up to be the capital’s gastronomic renaissance
This is, without a doubt, a great time for the Athenian restaurant scene. So many new places are opening up, we can barely keep track. From fine dining and refined tavernas (what in Greece are called gastrotavernas) to the more conceptual, laid-back, and new-age options, the Greek capital has it all. And it’s not only about quantity. Quality ingredients, locality, seasonality, and even sustainability are key for almost all chefs trying to find their place in the city’s gastronomic landscape. Some newcomers have already managed to do so and are currently the “talk of the town” in this highly competitive setting. Let’s take a look at some of them and why everyone is talking about them.
[1]
Osteria Mama
Italian inspired food in a cosy and warm atmoshere
How many times have you gotten lost in the streets of Trastevere, the more bohemian neighborhood in Rome, trying to find that little family-run gem you’ve heard about, which only serves authentic recipes, just to get that perfect nonna-cooked dish and Italian family vibes? Well, now you can get as close to that as possible in Greece! The place is called Osteria Mama, and it is a project of the heart by the seasoned chef Eleni Saranti and her husband, Vassilis Stefanakis.
The three-month-old restaurant on the pedestrian Salaminos Street in Keramikos is a tribute to the chef’s late mother, who always dreamed of running her own place in that neighborhood where she raised her four children. Now, they’re all involved in the project. You can expect a tight menu of only handmade food—peeking into the kitchen will remind you of home—like fresh pasta and gnocchi, arancini, and hearty meat dishes (veal saltimbocca, cotoletta Bolognese, lamb shank, etc.). Extra bonus: a strong wine list with many Italian labels, curated by Tilemachos Papandreas (who is also the sommelier at the two-Michelin-starred Delta).
Salaminos 64, Keramikos | For reservations: sevenrooms.com
[2]
Atelier Papaioannou
Immersed in a vibrant tapestry of flowers and soft lighting
Despite the restaurant in Stoa Spiromiliou being very new—it opened just over three months ago—the name “Papaioannou” carries with it decades of know-how as well as consumers’ trust in the quality of its ingredients and the flavor of its dishes. Ever since it first opened its doors in Piraeus, Greece’s largest port, it has been one of its landmarks. But now, Giorgos Papaioannou, the famous restaurant’s owner, has decided, in collaboration with S | One Hospitality, to also conquer Athens.
With a few tweaks to match a different type of clientele and the neighborhood’s vibe, the acclaimed eatery, which specializes in fresh fish and seafood, will try to bring its distinct personality to its new location. Raw dishes, shellfish, and traditional recipes with a twist—every treasure the sea has to offer, cooked to perfection. The chef, Konstantinos Pappas, is really pulling out all the stops to impress the demanding Athenian crowd, and judging by his experience and talent, he will most probably achieve it.
Voukourestiou 3, Stoa Spiromiliou, Syntagma | Tel. +30 210 32.11.315
[3]
Kaireion
Travelling back in time
We all love fine dining every once in a while, but nothing beats that special laid-back gastronomic experience that only a well-prepared “kafeneio” mezze (Greek tapas) can give you. When done right, these small delicacies can surpass many Michelin-starred meals any given day. Kaireion, which borrows its name from its historic location—Stoa Kairi in Monastiraki—checks all the boxes of a proper gourmand’s list. Rare, hard-to-find small “treasures” like “mixinari” (a small fish from Mesologgi that is unknown to most Greeks), handmade dishes from scratch (like the hand-cut French fries served daily), seasonal ingredients from small producers, and, of course, interesting recipes curated by the chef Giorgos Nousias, that combine the culinary traditions of Greece and its neighbors from the Balkans and Asia Minor.
Even though it just opened its doors this past November, the owners, Giannis Georgiadis, Giorgos Kostoglou, and Chryssa Skourli, have done an amazing job in creating the beloved traditional “kafeneio” with a modern take on high quality. We can’t think of a better start than that!
Kairi 6, Monastiraki | Tel. +30 210 33.15.871
[4]
Cinapos
The place where every gathering feels like home
Two “celebrities” have come together to create this brand-new big hit called Cinapos. On the one hand, the chef, Panos Ioannidis, whose fame in Greece surpasses any project he has ever undertaken, since for many seasons now he has been one of the beloved judges/presenters of the very successful TV show MasterChef. On the other hand, the location of the restaurant, having at some point been used as the stables of Othon, the country’s first-ever king, but most importantly, having for many years been one of the most iconic hangouts of the ’90s and early ’00s, “Stavlos”. So you see, its karma is that of success.
For those who know—and love—chef Ioannidis, the fact that he chose to create a Greek “mezedopoleio” (Greek tapas restaurant), even if it is the fanciest we have ever seen, came as a surprise, as for many years he has been a thespian of Italian cuisine. However, having grown up with two grandmothers from Asia Minor, Middle Eastern spices run through his veins—something that is evident in his new menu. At the helm of this very demanding kitchen—it’s worth mentioning that there are 200 tables in total—is the very talented Dora Sakayianni. We will definitely revisit Cinapos for further details!
Heraklidon 10, Thiseio | Tel. +30 210 71.03.030
[5]
Meigma
A postomdern greek taverna
There’s a lot to be said about being true to your roots and to the authentic cuisine of your country, but as the true citizens of the world that we all have become, there is nothing wrong with appreciating other cultures as well. On the contrary. After all, every single national cuisine has, in some way or another, been influenced by some other country. And let’s not forget the fusion trend, which has offered us many culinary delights over the years—we would never have had Nikkei cuisine otherwise.
So, we can all appreciate what Marina Chrona is doing in Metaxourgeio with her brand-new project, Meigma, which started serving its first customers last month. Contrary to her other very successful eatery, Rini, close to the Archaeological Museum, in this industrial but cozy place—thanks to the many plants and striking street art by Luca Zamoc and Luca Lattuga, the same duo behind the murals at Social Tables Ghirlandina, Massimo Bottura’s Food For Soul headquarters in Modena, Italy—Marina combines foods that intrigue, no matter where they come from, whether it is Kasos with its teeny-tiny stuffed grape leaves or Russia with its famous Russian salad. The only caveat is that it’s authentic. For, as we all know, comfort food knows no boundaries. Oh, and it is open for brunch from 9 a.m.
Megalou Alexandrou 114, Metaxourgeio | Tel. +30 210-34.52.094
[6]
Voulkanizater
A hi-fi experience of food, drink and sounds
Remember when going out was always an occasion to party? Then things got a little… quieter for a while, and now they’re picking back up. Party restaurants are making a comeback, and we are delighted—even if we are not in our 20s anymore. A great example and a perfect combination of good music and fine dining is the new hi-fi restaurant in Koukaki, Voulkanizater. It is the result of the collaboration of three entertainment and restaurateur masterminds: Giannis Salpeas (Iodio, Gorlomi, Zurbaran, etc.), Andreas Papadimitrakopoulos, and Nefeli Sahverdian, who found the space for their next great project in an old tire shop. And their instinct was spot on.
Of course, they had other things going for them as well, first and foremost, the exceptional chef Thomas Matsas (Alemāgou, LeSapin, Pāppu, Striggla), for whom things seem to be going great right now. If you manage to get a table, you have to try the viral baked carrot with chimichurri sauce, pecans, and peanut butter; the “opsimotiri” from Parnassos with flower honeycomb; and the “yiouvetsi” (baked manestra) with short ribs. Among other gastronomic highlights is the butter that is lit like a candle and slowly melts while you dip your sourdough bread! After 11 p.m., the food goes away, and the place turns into a bar where no reservations are needed. The ’90s are back!
Odissea Androutsou 17, Koukaki | Tel. +30 210-92.29.186
[7]
12 Piata
Authentic flavors of Greek cuisine
Exactly what its name says: “12 dishes” (12 Piata in Greek). That’s how many there are on the menu—nine of them under nine euros—in this humble taverna-gyro place in Koukaki, with a Michelin-starred chef (Panos Kiriakis) and a successful restaurateur who is behind most of the new “hot” projects in Athens right now (Giannis Salpeas). “Sikoti” (liver) cooked to perfection, clean handmade gyro, tzatziki without the garlic, kebabs, sausages, “zohi” (greens) with “xinomizithra” (a type of white, soft cheese), and freshly cut French fries. Simple, yet delicious.
Odissea Androutsou 36, Koukaki | Tel. +30 210-92.42.514
